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The Legal Equestrian

August 17, 2015

8 ways to make horse ownership less expensive

Owning a horse is expensive. In fact, my dad’s most famous saying when it comes to horses is purchasing the horse is the cheapest part. While there are certain corners that shouldn’t be cut when you own a horse, there are some things you can do to make horse ownership less expensive for you!

Consider rough board: Some barns offer the option of boarding your horse outside. This is not for everyone, and if you own an expensive show horse, or are overly concerned about your horse’s health/well-being/safety while outside, boarding your horse completely outside might not be the best option for you. However, if you don’t mind your horse being outside 24/7, this is a great way to save money! Rough board is cheaper than board with a stall, and it can help you save on costs. Pro Tip: Make sure the field in which your horse will be staying has a run-in shed, or several if there will be more than one horse. This will allow your horse shelter on particularly stormy, snowy, cold, hot, or windy days.

Self-care board: This is another option but isn’t ideal for someone like a high school or college student (if you don’t have a flexible schedule). Many barns will allow you to keep your horse at their facility, but you will be responsible for literally everything regarding their care. Some barns will provide shavings and grain while others won’t. However, your mucking, feeding, turnout, etc. will greatly save on costs because you won’t be paying someone to do those things for you! Additionally, if there is a time when you can’t do self-care board, many barns often have the option to do full board for a week or two so that you can take care of  other obligations.

Shop at consignment stores: Some riders think this is frowned upon, but this is actually a very smart idea. Buying riding items used, as long as they are in good condition, helps save money. You can find some pretty awesome and even high-end things for much cheaper than retail price on consignment. It’s a great way to look fashionable, get the best for your horse, and keep some money in your wallet. Contrary to popular belief, you do not need to ride in the fanciest, most expensive tack and riding apparel. Many tack shops have a consignment section, and there are a lot of consignment tack/apparel websites like Equestri LifeStyle, ISellTack, TackPal, Commotion! Consignment Riding Apparel, and more. Facebook groups are also extremely popular with the most popular being English Tack Trader.

Give your own vaccinations: This is not recommended if a. you have no idea how to do this, b. you are on ColiCare from SmartPak or another insurance-type program that requires vaccinations be given by a veterinarian, or c. you don’t know how to do this. I’ve known many equestrians that are able to give their own vaccinations, and this cuts costs. Not only will you save on a farm call for having your vet out to give shots, but the price of vaccinations by a vet is obviously greatly marked up. If you know how to give shots and are comfortable doing so, giving them yourself is a great way to save money. However, certain insurance programs, like ColiCare, require that your horse be given vaccinations by a vet, and shots administered by someone other than a licensed veterinarian can invalidate the coverage. Be sure to take this into account before considering this option.

Working off costs: Some barns will allow boarders or lesson students to work off the cost of board, lessons, or showing. Be aware, though, that this may mean working your a*s off. For example, two girls at my barn attended the horse show we recently went to; however, they worked during the entirety of it to get a discount off of their fees. Additionally, if you are considered an Amateur rider, receiving a discount on board, showing, or lessons is considered remuneration under the Amateur rule and could vault you into Professional land which might not be where you want to be. However, being a “working student” and working off board is a great way not just to cut costs but also to gain more experience riding and working with horses. Being a working student is an invaluable experience, and those who are able to have that experience are extremely lucky.

Half lease your horse: If you don’t want to share your horse, this is not an option for you. But – half-leasing is another way to cut down the bills on ownership. Half-leasing typically means that you will have another rider who “shares” your horse with you. That rider will pay half the board and half the routine bills. Emergency bills and how they are handled is up to the both of you. (ps. I will be offering lease contract writing services in the fall. Check out my page describing what I’ll be offering!) Remember though that if you half-lease your horse, there will be days you cannot ride or use your horse because those are the days you agreed to allow the half-lessor use of your horse. Hence, if you are possessive and do not want to share – this isn’t for you.

Let your horse be used for lessons: This is another great option if you are someone who doesn’t mind sharing and if your horse can be used for lessons. However, having a strong written agreement between you and your trainer is imperative for this so that your generosity is not taken advantage of. Some trainers will give a discount on board if you allow your horse or pony to be used in their lesson program. The downsides? You’ll be sharing. Your horse/pony may pick up bad habits. You’ll have days where you cannot ride because your horse is being used in lessons. Something like this takes a lot of thought, and it isn’t something to jump into. Discussing this option thoroughly with your trainer to see how it can benefit you is the best option, and I would consider the aforementioned options first before resorting to this one (unless, of course, you trust your trainer immensely and are desperate to cut your costs).

Don’t spend money on unnecessary non-horse-related items: This may not be something you do, especially if you spend a ton of time at the barn, but choosing not to buy that makeup item, pair of jeans, or new pair of shoes can also be a good way to save money for horse ownership. This isn’t directly related to owning a horse, but rather than spending $100 on a pair of jeans, you can put that $100 towards a lesson, vet or farrier bill, or board. Of course, this relates to unnecessary items. Don’t skimp on buying toothpaste simply to save money to ride.

As stated, horse ownership is certainly expensive, and I am a huge advocate for saying if you can’t afford a horse, you probably shouldn’t own one. However, if you have way of cutting costs and want to pursue your passion, there is nothing wrong with that. Above are just a few tips, and there are many other ways to cut costs – just make sure your ways of keeping bills low don’t interfere with your horse’s well-being. That isn’t fair to the horse, and if your way of cutting costs does put your horse in danger, you probably shouldn’t own a horse in the first place!

1 Comment · Filed Under: Buying A Horse, Equine Health, Horse Advice, Horses, How-to, Riding Tips, Tips, Training Tips

March 16, 2015

What to buy when purchasing your first horse

I get a lot of question in my Ask.fm from people wanting to know what they should get when they are leasing or buying their first horse. Thankfully, guest writer Katie Stone has put together a handy list of things she learned she needed when she bought her lease horse.

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First, I want to congratulate you on your first horse! I recently bought my lease of 7 months and was left with only a light turnout sheet and a few of his favorite treats. I spent the first week of owning him rushing around to different tack stores and ordering a few things from SmartPak. With needing the products ASAP, and not having a huge budget for everything, I had to quickly decide what I needed and what could wait. Note: You might need to adjust the products you buy depending on the weather where you/your horse lives. Example: You might not need heavy turnout blankets if you live in Florida

Thankfully at the end of January it was not too cold yet, so I could make do with the turnout sheet that was left for him and the stable blanket that I had previously purchased. But knowing the temperature was going to drop, I needed to keep him warm and toasty. I ordered the Rockin’ SP turnout sheet in heavy weight and a matching neck rug. My reason for choosing this brand was the cut of the blanket. My horse Furivanti (aka ‘Furi’) has a Quarter Horse build; therefore, he needed the extra room that this brand/line of blankets offered for his broad shoulders and bigger rear. This was my first priority due to the weather in the Midwest.

Within days of the purchase, he broke the only halter I had bought him while in turnout. The previous day I had purchased a breakaway halter and a few cheaper halters for “just in case.” I was lucky that I had one with me that day, but it definitely showed me that I should always have an extra one on hand. I also thought it was necessary to purchase a lead line with a chain. Furi is not the best with taking medicine/wormers, and he can be difficult to handle with the weather changes. It is just a personal preference that I have found to be very helpful.

Also within the first week of the purchase, I found a nice size cut down his leg. Although it was superficial (thank goodness) I knew I needed to wash it out with saline and use a spray on bandaid, but I didn’t have any of that yet. Thankfully my barn manager allowed me to borrow some. Later that week, I picked up saline wash, Betadine, antibacterial ointment, gauze, vet wrap (I recommend PowerFlex, it is very stretchy and they tend to stick well with/without gauze! Plus, the camo looked so cute on Furi.), and Alu Shield Aerosol Bandage.  Along with these products I purchased Dr. Kellon’s Guide to First Aid for Horsesfrom my local tack store to keep in my locker for quick reference. (Editor’s Note: I have this book, and it is amazing.)

Although you might already own grooming supplies, you will probably need to add a few things.  You will need a grooming tote containing brushes, a few hoofpicks, curry combs (I personally like my curry mitt because it is flexible enough to use on legs, and you can use it come bath time in the spring!), a shedding blade, and a sweat scraper.  A few other things you can keep in your tote may be those little, purple horse shavers for whiskers, a bottle of thrush buster for easy access, and a rag. I also keep some Absorbine natural hoof oil on hand. I have found that the Absorbine brand works best on Furi. I own the liquid with brush applicator and the spray on. Personally I like the brush applicator better. Furi is barefoot, therefore, keeping his hooves strong is very important, and I am a supporter of anything natural.

If you don’t already know your new horse, be sure to ask his or her previous owners about any supplements or special diets he or is on. You want to make sure to keep whatever you can consistent for your horse while he or she is adjusting to his or her new home and/or new routine.

You will will most likely need a saddle, girth, bridle, bit, saddle pad/half pad, and protective boots/wraps or polos to ride your horse. This can vary depending on your discipline. With a new/first horse you want to make sure that everything you may have previously purchased and the new things you purchase fit your new horse properly. Be sure to ask your trainer or another professional if you have any questions or concerns on the fit of your riding gear.  Luckily since I was leasing before I purchased Furi, I had accumulated these things throughout that time so I was prepared when I did purchase him.

These are some of the places I found these products and their prices mentioned in this article. The products you need may vary depending on your horses needs and your budget. It is important to prioritize your horses needs when on a budget. The first few months of owning your first horse will be the most expensive because you are acquiring the necessities (which is a lot), but it is also so exciting because you finally get to purchase the leather horse bracelet with his or her name. You also can customize and add your last name to blankets, halters, bridles, etc. Enjoy every second of it and remember when you had just started in lessons and already had your dream horse picked out.

 

  • Rockin’ SP Turnout – $169.96 (Smartpak)
  • Rockin’ SP Neck Rug – $74.95 (Smartpak)
  • Power Flex Vet Wrap – $1.79 (Big Dee’s Tack and Vet Supply)
  • Hooflex Natural –  $14.95 (SmartPak)
  • Dr. Kellon’s Guide to First Aid for Horses – $29.58 (Amazon)

 

 

1 Comment · Filed Under: Buying A Horse, Equine Health, Guest Posts, Horse Advice, Horses

September 26, 2014

5 unique things to ask yourself before buying a new horse

Photo Credit: HorseJunkiesUnited.com

Buying a horse is a huge commitment, and it can be disastrous if you don’t ask the right questions or have an experienced horse person to help you.

My trainer, Lindsay, has bought and sold a variety of horses for herself and for other clients. This past year she helped me go horse shopping. We picked out a horse for me to lease for a year, but he ended up being perfect for me and more than just a lease, and I just purchased him – with her help, of course! There are a lot of articles about buying a horse, but Lindsay put together a list of questions that are not often asked in these articles and are often the most important to consider…

Throughout my time in the horse world, I’ve had the pleasure and privilege to look for horses, not only for myself, but for clients, as well.  I have seen thousands of horses, across disciplines and across price ranges.  Whether you are looking for a big show horse to take you to the 3’6″ or a child’s first pony, there are a few questions you need to ask yourself.
1. What is your budget?  This is a very important question.  It is very easy to spend a lot of money very quickly.  Know your budget, and don’t even try a horse if it is out of your price range- that will be the horse you fall in love with.  People ask all the time, “How much does a horse cost?”  I tell them that horses vary greatly in price.  (My boyfriend answers, “Well, how much money do you have?”)  You can find a horse in ANY price range, but you have to ask yourself…
2. What are you willing to give up to stay within your budget?  In horse shopping, like house/apartment shopping, the chances of finding exactly what you want for exactly the right price are close to zero.  I suggest making a “must have” list.  This list is different for everyone.  If you are looking for a sound minded horse that will teach your child how to jump, you might be willing to look at an older horse with some minor health issues.  If you are looking for your 3’6″ horse, maybe you would forgo show miles for talent.  Maybe not.  Only you can know what your priorities are.  If you want a horse with PERFECT x-rays, that horse might not have the most jumping experience.  And so the list goes.  Your “must have” list depends on your answer to…
3. What do you want to do with your horse and when do you want to do it?  Your goals are a very important part of finding your perfect horse.  Everyone has goals for their riding.  Some people have ambitious showing goals; some people simply want enjoyment from a ride once or twice a week.  By knowing your goals, you will be able to determine what you will want from your prospective mount.  Recently, a woman purchased a young, green horse and soon realized that this horse was not her match.  It was not because the horse was “bad” or “mean” or even because she didn’t like riding him.  She was not honest with herself about what she needed from a horse.  She was in love with the idea of training a young horse.  But, when it came time to do the work, she realized she didn’t have the time or the skill to train this horse.   Her true goal was to ride twice a week and have a predictable horse that allowed her to work on her skills.  This particular woman was also unrealistic about the time frame of training a young horse.   Young horses generally take a longer time to train and mature.  Older horses are who they are, to a certain extent.  Do you want to walk into the show ring and win tomorrow?  You are looking for an older horse with miles.  Do you want to spend the next year or so honing your horses skills while still improving yourself?  You are looking for a middle aged horse that needs finishing touches.  Do you want to spend the next 2-4 years helping a horse learn how to properly use him/herself and mold them to the discipline of your choice?  You are looking for a young green horse.  If you make a list of your goals, with a realistic time frame, then you will be able to narrow your search to more suitable matches for you.
4. How long do you want to keep this horse?   Horses are a strange combination of pet, teammate, and asset.  Many people buying their first horse believe that this is going to be their horse forever.  More often than not, this is not the case.  Children grow out of ponies; the rider’s skill surpasses the horse’s abilities; financial situations change.    Many people asked how I could sell my previous horses.  I generally answer, “The horse was not getting what he needed from me and I was not getting what I needed from him, so we broke up.”  It is okay to sell your horse if it is time to move on, much like it is okay to break up with your boyfriend if there is no long term future there.  It doesn’t mean you didn’t love him or that you don’t want the best for him or that you weren’t a great match at one point in time.   To alleviate some of that “break up” anxiety, it is good to think about how long you would like to keep the horse you are buying.  Is it a prospect horse?  Is it an investment horse?  Is it a transition horse?  Is it a school horse? Is it a child’s pony? Is it a horse that you want to fall in love with an keep forever?  Obviously, once you buy the horse, your time frame might change.  For example, one of my clients went looking for a transition horse.  She wanted something to build her confidence, help her move up, and get her into showing.  We found a great horse in her price range for lease.  We only tried him once; we didn’t invest that much time in debating his long term value.  He was great for right now, and then he would go back in a year when she was ready to move on.  The time frame fit her goals and the horse was ready to do what she needed right then.  After a few months, we realized that the initial time frame was changing.  The horse surpassed our expectations and had a lot more to teach this rider.  As the horse’s muscle tone changed, his true talent emerged.  This one year transition horse turned into a horse suitable for at least 2-3 years, if not longer.   While a time frame is subject to change, it is a good thing to think about in conjunction with your goals.  Whether you want to sell a horse quickly or if you want to keep him/her forever, your time frame effects your “must have” list.
5. How much training are you willing to pay for?  If you are going to look for a horse with your trainer, make sure you are on the same page about the number of training rides, lessons, and time you are expecting from your trainer.  Some trainers will try to “up sell” to ensure a steady stream of income from the sale and after the sale.  Some trainers will only “allow” you to buy a horse that they want to ride.  Some trainers are absolutely wonderful and truly help you through the process.  I have seen many people rely solely on their trainer’s opinion and not trust their own gut/ignore their own wants.  I have seen many people completely ignore their trainer’s advice.  In both those scenarios, neither the trainer nor the client (nor the horse) ends up happy.  Be honest with your trainer about what you want from a horse.  Be honest about what you are willing to pay for.  And if your trainer shows you something that doesn’t fit your “must have” list- be honest!!  There are plenty of horses out there.  If you trainer is pushing you to buy a horse you aren’t comfortable with- be honest!!  There are plenty of trainers out there.  A good trainer will listen, help you build your “must have” list, and review each prospective horse with a critical (but not judgmental) eye.  When I was a junior, looking for my big show horse, I had the help of a great trainer.  She patiently showed me hundreds (no exaggeration) of horses.  We talked about each one- the pros, the cons, the feel, the look, the training.  I could ride all of potentials, but none of them were MINE.  When I finally found MY horse, my trainer and I (and the horse, too!) knew instantly.  He had been looking for his rider as long as I had been looking for my horse.  To this day, he is the only horse I could never sell.

Leave a Comment · Filed Under: Buying A Horse, Guest Posts, Horse Advice, Horses

December 11, 2013

Bill of Sale: What to Include and What to Look Out For

As a disclaimer, one should always consider consulting with a licensed attorney about a purchase or sale contract when buying or selling a horse or pony. This article is not to be considered legal advice. Any questions regarding fact-specific situations should be taken to a licensed and knowledgeable equine attorney.

A sale contract for a horse or pony does not have to be long and complicated to get the job done. There are a few things that should be in every bill of sale. Ensuring your bill of sale has these things in it will protect you and the person with whom you are dealing. It should also be noted that the USHJA discussed a mandatory bill of sale rule at its annual meeting taking place this week.

What should you include in a contract for buying or selling a horse?

The buyer & seller: The buyer and seller of the horse or pony should be identified by full name, address, and phone number. It is also important that the seller listed on the contract is the same person listed on the horse or pony’s registration papers (if it is registered). A discrepancy between the two may cause problems down the road, especially if the sale is contested.

The horse/pony: A full description of the horse or pony should be in the contract. This includes its name (registered name and barn name, if there is one), age, color, markings, breed, a registration number (if there is one), and a microchip number (if there is a microchip). Be sure to be precise about the horse or pony’s description. List any specific markings or scars.

Information about the sale: This includes the sale price and how the price is being paid. If the price is being paid in cash, make sure to specify that. If a trade is being made, specify the terms of the trade and what is being exchanged for what. Sometimes individuals buy a horse or pony and pay in installments. If this method is being used, be sure to note the down payment, how often subsequent payments are being made and the amount of them, and how long the subsequent payments are being made. If installment payments are involved, be sure to specify when the buyer actually takes ownership of the horse or pony and what happens if the buyer fails to complete the payments. Also specify where the horse will be located while the payments are being made and who will have possession of any pertinent papers such as registration papers and medical records. Also be sure to list the date of the sale as well for legal and tax purposes.

Pre-purchase exam: Before I talk about how this should be spelled out in the agreement, please know that it is very important to get a pre-purchase exam. It maybe expensive, but it will save you a lot of money in the long run if you discover any problems before you commit to buying a horse or pony that you may not be able to return in the future if you discover an undisclosed problem. With that said, if the buyer decides not to obtain a pre-purchase exam, this should definitely be noted in the contract. This notation is important as it will protect the seller in the future since the buyer elected not to investigate the horse or pony before he or she committed to purchasing it.

Risk of loss & warranties: It is important to specify when the buyer takes responsibility for injury or death of the horse or pony as well as any injuries the horse or pony may cause in the future. Risk of loss usually passes to the buyer when the contract is signed or when the buyer takes possession of the horse, which may be later than the signing of the contract if installment payments are involved. As for warranties, typically a horse is sold “as is.” This means that the seller does not make any representations or warranties regarding the horse or pony’s future fitness and performance. It is important, also, to ensure that any statements the seller made about the horse orally are in writing, as those cannot be proven in the future if a problem arises. If a seller is representing that the horse is sound, then the seller should have no issues putting that in writing.

Does the buyer need to obtain insurance?: If the horse or pony is being sold using installment payments or if it is going out on a trial period, the seller should insist on obtaining insurance for the horse or pony. The buyer would also be advised to agree to this, as it will protect both parties if anything was to happen to the horse or pony before the trial period was up or before the installment payments are completed.

Attorney’s fees & choice of law: Contracts often will specify who bears the attorney’s fees if a dispute arises. They also specify which laws the party will be sued under. It is most common for the contract to specify that the loser in a potential legal action will pay the winning party’s attorney’s fees. Additionally, if the parties are from different jurisdictions, it is important to specify where the individual will be sued. Laws are different in different states, and something that may come out favorably in New Jersey might not come out the same way in New York or Pennsylvania.

Returns & rights of first refusal: If the seller is willing to accept the horse or pony back after the sale has been completed, this should be put in writing in the sale contract. Specify the terms of any return. While some sellers will accept the horse back and give a refund, others will not. Additionally, some sellers want to make sure that the horse or pony does not end up with someone they have not vetted themselves. While these provisions aren’t always enforceable, it is still a good idea to have them in writing in order to ensure some type of remedy if the buyer sells the horse or pony to a third party without your knowledge or consent. Set out the procedure for this very specifically as well.

Signatures: Any and all parties to the sale contract must sign it. It’s as simple as that.

Related articles
  • Things to Remember When Buying A Horse (thelegalequestrian.wordpress.com)

1 Comment · Filed Under: Buying A Horse, Horses

December 11, 2013

Things to Remember When Buying A Horse

I have seen a lot of people make horse buying mistakes – even individuals who have been in the horse business for years! There is a right way to go about buying a horse, and everyone should do their research to make sure they are asking the right questions before they sign that contract or write out that check.

    1. Always go look at the horse you’re thinking of buying. The internet has become a huge marketing tool nowadays. There are more horse buying and selling websites than I can name, and Facebook even has its own groups for buying and selling horses. While sellers can post videos and photos of the horse they are advertising, these are not always accurate. Nothing beats getting your own first hand look at the horse you are thinking of buying. Seeing the horse in person will allow you to identify any flaws the horse may have that were not identified in the sales ad. You also will be able to see how the horse behaves the entire time it is being ridden. Let’s face it: It’s extremely easy for someone to take an hour’s worth of riding footage and cut it down into a 10-minute video, but the catch is that you will never know what happened in the other 50 minutes of riding. Was the horse well-behaved? Or did the rider have to take half an hour to make sure the horse got all of its yahoos out before a suitable video could be shot. There is also no way of knowing when a photo or video was taken. The footage you have could be years old, and the horse could have changed significantly by now.
    2. Bring someone experienced and trustworthy with you. If you do not have a lot of horse experience, then bringing your trainer or a knowledgeable friend with you is an absolute must. If you do have experience, it is still good to bring someone else with you when you go look at and ride the horse. Having a second opinion is always valuable, and two heads are better than one. Your buying companion may think of questions that you may not have and vice versa. For those of you who are not as horse savvy, bringing your trainer or barn manager with you can keep you from making a big mistake when committing to buying a horse. Many times the seller will allow the trainer and the purchaser to ride the horse. Your trainer can let you know if they feel the horse you are thinking of buying is the right horse for you.
    3. Get a vet check. This is probably one of the biggest mistakes a first-time horse buyer can make. If there is one thing you are going to do, you must get a vet check. It doesn’t matter if the horse is $1,000 or $50,000. A cheap horse is not always an inexpensive one. Ever heard that saying “never look a gift horse in the mouth”? If possible, use a veterinarian that you know and are comfortable with. Try not to use the veterinarian that has routinely cared for the horse you are buying. You want an unbiased opinion that will tip you off to any potential problems, not one that minimizes or downplays any issue the horse may have or has had. Although it will be expensive, obtaining a vet check will be invaluable for the future, especially if the horse has a health issue that would not be detected without a professional. Make sure you get x-rays and have the horse’s blood drawn. Lab work will show whether the horse has been treated with any medications. Imagine riding a dead quiet horse at the pre-purchase visit, buying the horse, and having it turn into a monster a month later. Drawing blood can prevent all of these potential problems.
    4. Get everything in writing. Aside from getting a vet check, this is another huge mistake that buyers and sellers make. It is very important that a written agreement is involved, whether the purchase is subject to a vet check, a trial period, or an installment sale. A bill of sale should describe the terms of the sale, as well as information specific to your situation. If you are taking the horse on trial, the agreement should state under what circumstances you can return the horse. If the purchase is pending a successful vet exam, the agreement should set out what circumstances would warrant a return of the horse. Having everything in writing is very important, and there are so many things to keep in mind, for both buyers and sellers, that a whole separate post can be dedicated to a bill of sale. Just remember to be as specific as possible to protect both yourself and the person you are dealing with.

One other tip for buyers is to ask the horse’s owner to authorize the release of the horse’s medical records to you. That way, you can check for yourself whether what the seller is saying about the horse’s history is true. Is the horse truly sound? Does the horse truly have no history of colic? If the seller is reluctant to release this information to you, it could be a red flag.

Related articles
  • Bill of Sale: What to Include and What to Look Out For (thelegalequestrian.wordpress.com)

1 Comment · Filed Under: Buying A Horse, Horses


amateur hunter/eq rider. lawyer. entrepreneur.
two horses, one pony.
zone two.
perfectionist.
still love the expensive & innovative.

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